Very proud to show you my first major DIY project at the new house which is 99% complete AND decorated for Christmas. But first, Here’s a before shot for you:
I knew from the moment we decided to buy this house that I was going to paint this fireplace bright white (it was a creamy beige color) and shiplap around it. What I didn’t know was that I would end up painting that shiplap green. Our color palette for the home renovation project can be seen below. We are slowly working to change every wall from tan, to SW High Reflective White. We are currently in a debate on what to do with all the trim and base. We know we want to upgrade it, so we aren’t sure we want to put in time and effort to paint it if we are swapping it out over the next few years.
I learned a lot on my first shiplap project. (For the how-to or product list, skip down below) One thing I do want to address is that when I started searching blogs and reading other DIY recommendations on shiplapping a wall, the majority of the recommendations talk extensively about ripping down plywood to make faux shiplap because it’s a fraction of the cost. We purchased plywood with the intention to do just that, however I snapped a picture of the real shiplap when we were at Lowe’s and while we were driving home I was doing some math. Because the price of plywood has skyrocketed in 2020, the price difference between the real stuff and the plywood version was about $30 for my project. We all have our own budgets to adhere to, but in my case, $30 was not even remotely worth it for the work that ripping plywood down was going to be. So we opted to do the real deal. It’s so easy to work with and takes so much less time than doing the faux shiplap method.
Just something to keep in mind if you’re considering shiplap in 2020. I’d also like to add that as a total newcomer to the home improvement DIY world, cheaper is not always better because it often means more work and time. If your time is worth more than the materials cost difference to you, go for the good stuff and save time and energy. I have not seen other bloggers saying this type of thing, and just wanted to throw it out there.
Another lesson I learned the hard way on this project: spray painting shiplap is superior to rolling it. If you can rent or borrow a sprayer (or buy one) then go for it. You have to paint the “tongue” part of the shiplap before installation and it is not super easy to get perfectly smooth.
I still need to come up with an outlet solution. I don’t want white outlets popping out so I’m currently researching other options. This project took me two days to complete, just a few hours each day. I’ve linked my favorite tools below. The pieces I found essential for this project were the jigsaw and nailer gun. You could easily cut all the shiplap with the jigsaw, although I did use a miter saw since I already had one. The jigsaw was perfect for cutting the tricky bits. Click any photo below for more info on the products I used and just a little disclaimer that I do her a very small commission on anything purchased through my links.
If you decide to try a shiplap project, please tag me on instagram or facebook @realtorontheroad #realtorontheroad
How to Shiplap around a Fireplace
Tools needed:
- Brad Nailer Gun and brad nails (I used 1 1/2 in brad nails
- Shiplap or Plywood ripped into shiplap-like planks
- Jigsaw (for making cuts and cutting around outlets/fireplace mantle
- Paint and paint supplies (sprayer or roller)
First, measure your space and calculate how much shiplap you’ll need. Buy a few extra. (Always.)
Second, decide if you’re going to roll or spray your shiplap. Spraying is the suggested method. I rolled mine though so that’s what I’ll describe here. You need to set-up the shiplap on some saw horses and paint the “tongue” and the sides of the shiplap. Those parts are really difficult to get to after you’ve installed the shiplap, so you need to paint them pre-installation. Two coats. I used a foam roller made for doors so I could back roll and get as smooth of a surface as possible. (Again, hindsight tells me you should borrow or invest in a handheld sprayer for the best finish on a shiplap wall!)
Third, decide where you want to start your shiplap on the wall. Top. Bottom. Or from a critical point. There are a million reasons to do any of these methods. I went from bottom to top because it’s the easiest to install, for the most part. However, if I were to do this exact project again, I’d consider going from a critical point, which is starting a whole piece of shiplap on top of the fireplace mantle. If this is your focal point and important to you, I’d go with this method. Because I did bottom-up installation, I got to the mantle and had to cut a piece all the way across that was only about an inch wide. It really looks okay and was easy to do with the jigsaw.
You also need to use a stud finder and mark a line up the wall for where all your studs are. This way you will know where to put your nails for the most secure installation.
Fourth, go for it! make your first measurements, make a cut and start installing. You measure the length needed, make the cut and then set the shiplap in place and use the brad nailer to secure it to the wall. If you nail into the “tongue”, it’ll mean less nail holes to fill and sand when you get to that later. I think it’s really tempting here to put lots of nails in – but shiplap doesn’t need nails everywhere. I did several along the tongue (try to do a different angle for each nail on the same piece. Angle one up, the next down, the third to the right, and the next to the left. Repeat pattern.) and then one on the face of the shiplap at every joint. Just repeat this up your entire wall. Be sure to use the contour gauge to get around your fireplace mantle and any mouldings or funky areas. This thing is your best friend. You also need to take a level and set it on your shiplap periodically to make sure you’re keeping things straight.
Fifth, finishing up the top was pretty easy for my project. There was about a 2 inch gap between my last piece of shiplap and the ceiling. Instead of making an awkward cut and putting on another piece of shiplap, I just covered it with a trim piece and called it a day.
Sixth, you caulk along the edges and around your fireplace. (Buy paintable, white caulk.) And then use wood putty to fill all nail holes. I like the DAP plastic wood verison. When your putty is dry, you’ll want to take a fine grit sandpaper and sand over the nail holes.
Seventh, this is where you paint. I rolled my wall with a fine finish cabinet roller, and cut in the edges with a brush. But again, you’ll get the most seamless paint job by taping this off, masking with plastic and then using a handheld paint sprayer.
That’s it. Seriously, a weekend project, even for a beginner! Now go make Chip and Joanna proud with your new shiplap wall!
